Néprajzi értesítő 77. évfolyam, 1995.
A Néprajzi Múzeumban „Magyarok Kelet és Nyugat közt” címmel 1994. november 21–22-én tartott konferencia előadásai - A rendi nemzettudat szimbóluma, a díszmagyar / F. Dózsa Katalin = 77. évf. 155–165., ill., 9 ábr., bibl. 164., English summ.
A rendi nemzettudat szimbóluma, a díszmagyar 165 Katalin Földi-Dózsa THE HUNGARIAN GALA DRESS AS A SYMBOL OF FEUDAL NATIONAL IDENTITY Western observers regarded the Hungarian gala dress for men as a piece of oriental wear. It has probably conserved earlier oriental traditions, and also received Osmanli Turk impacts in the 16-17th centuries. In the 17th century it was worn by members of every social class. Women's gala dress had evolved during the same centuries, but was composed of western Renaissance elements. By the end of the 17th and also in the 18th century the historical Hungarian costume had become a piece of court clothing worn on occasions of court festivities. By the end of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th century, the Hungarian costume had gone out of fashion and was replaced by suits of French style. However, the Hungarian style court gala dress remained in use and developed after 1830 into a piece of clothing called 'díszmagyar' (i. e. Hungarian gala). Under the influence of national movements and that of romanticism it expressed national pride. After the suppression of the 1848/49 revolution, it also had national and oppositional connotations. In the 1860's its role became even more important. Men in higher social positions were obliged to wear it on social occasions. This remained the practice even between the two world wars. The Hungarian gala had expressed the distinct social standing of the feudal historical elite more and more exclusively.